food & thoughts,  travel

Amsterdam

Let’s just say it, Amsterdam rocks! No matter what age you are and what you want, Amsterdam has it. 

If you’ve never been to Europe, it’s a great jumping off point. The public transport is easy, and  walking jet lag off around the canals is always entertaining. The Dutch speak English fluently, which is also useful when you’re jet lagged. 

Amsterdam is known for a few things: 

  • a city where taboos in other places are legal and accessible, and therefore tempting for tourists
  • a city of culture: great museums and art
  • a city of history: the Anne Frank House 
  • a city of beauty: all the canals and the unique Dutch houses 
  • a city of bicycles: they’re everywhere! 

We’ve visited several times, and OUR Amsterdam is a blend, and honestly, depends on what we’re in the mood for. It’s a Delta/KLM European hub, so we get to enjoy it regularly, if only for a night or two on our way further afield. We enjoy seeing the people on the streets and the blend of local life, culture, tourists seeking the taboo, and how it all combines. There is nothing better than drinking a hot ginger tea (made with sliced ginger root), sitting outside and watching the throngs of people go by. Some with their Rollie bags to or from the train station, or others with that crazy, just arrived, urgent to see everything (not our style) vibe, or others  mellowed to a stroll as they leave a coffee shop (aka place to smoke weed), or the locals on their bikes just cruising through their day. 

We found a funky boutique hotel called The Toren on a trip through back in 2015 and it is amazing, and our only choice ever since. The hotel has a slightly risqué feel about it, with tastefully done semi-nude paintings and chandeliers in the bar/ living room area. The rooms aren’t big, but let’s face it, in those surroundings you want to be close to your partner. The bathrooms are also set to be seductive with tubs to be enjoyed in many. 

If you like European coffee, the in-room Nespresso coffee machines are for you. Stairs are tight, but an elevator solves any baggage problems. The continental breakfast is more than worth it if you have the time. Crispy fresh breads, local cheeses & cured meats are delicately arranged in the room which has the feel of a lounge / upscale bordello from the olden days. Eggs are available as well, but make sure you save room for a breakfast “desert” donut. (Stu’s fav. Ang likes the eggs with the rest of the selection.)

De Reiger is our “go to” dinner, particularly on the day we arrive from the States. A short walk from The Toren, it opens early (we are not nappers and just keep going until we crash) so that cold local beer is just what I need to wash the feeling of sleep away til after dinner. The mussels scream Europe with the simplicity of a white wine sauce setting you up for that Eurooean vacation all the rest of the amazing food to come. Try dipping fries into the liquid to get all the flavor they build up with simple fresh ingredients. (Ang’s trick since she has to eat gluten free. Dipping the bread is never a bad idea). Ribs. Did we mention the ribs??? There’s a secret dry rub mix with a possible African spice we still can’t work out after at least a dozen visits. Whatever it is, it works.  Soft and tender, these ribs are the perfect solution to forgetting airplane food. They go down fast and our bones are licked clean. The restaurant cat might even swing by to say hi if you’re in the bar area before you roll back to The Toren exhausted, and happy,  with a full belly to crash. But De Reiger is so good, we might go back the next night and try other things on the changing, local, seasonal menu. 

We like to change things up, and on our last trip, came upon The Happy Pig Pancake shop, 

with their own fun twist on crepes, offering both savory and sweet options, and “gluten light” buckwheat pancakes which Angie was really excited about, so we tried one of each. Angie had the Orient Express, an interesting mix of gouda cheese with a hot Coriander (cilantro) sauce & tomato. I had the Dutch delight, runny gouda cheese with fig jam a sweet savory mix perfect for the breakfast alternative guy i am. I liken them to a European spin on sushi

Cheese shops are everywhere, for good reason. If you don’t go in at least one every day and sample a different cheese, you’re not doing Amsterdam justice. Our current “go to,” or should I say “bring home & share with friends” is a truffle gouda. It’s slightly flakey, with that beautifiul aroma of truffle. Perfect on a burger, too. We’re also addicted to the cumin gouda, thanks to The Toren’s breakfast.  You wouldn’t think cumin and gouda would jump out at you, but it does. It so does. It’s perfect for cheese on toast, or melted over potatoes or even to make nachos… the list is endless. But seriously, go in a shop and taste away, chat with the cheesemonger – they have amazing knowledge and love of cheese and will explain the different types, ages and flavors, and show you what to taste together.

Amsterdam has so much to offer that just one trip would be doing it an injustice. A canal missed, a museum you didn’t get to, or just another beer you have to try. I know we’ll be going back as soon as we can.

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